9 Beginner-Friendly Alternatives to Leonidio for Winter Climbing in Greece
If you climb 5s and 6s and are planning a climbing vacation in Greece this winter, don’t feel like Leonidio is your only option. Here are 9 incredible alternative crags in Greece that are perfect for beginner and intermediate climbers — and trust me, you won’t regret visiting them!
Why Not Leonidio?
If you’re a beginner climber mainly working on routes in the 5s and low 6s, chances are high you've come across Leonidio in your research for winter climbing destinations. With its great climate, stunning scenery, and wide range of routes, it’s become one of the most popular spots for rock climbing in Greece.
And while Leonidio absolutely deserves its reputation — the valley is beautiful, the weather is great, and there’s plenty to climb — there’s one big downside for beginners: the main easy sector, Kokkinóvrachos, requires a 30-minute uphill hike. If you’re anything like me (lazy and strongly opposed to long approaches), you’ll probably be over it after a day or two.
It’s a common trend with well-known crags like Siurana, Margalef, Ceuse, and Verdon — they’re famous for their hard routes, not necessarily for being beginner-friendly climbing areas. The same goes for Leonidio: its true highlight is its late 6s and 7s tufa climbing, which isn’t ideal for new climbers.
The good news? Greece is packed with fantastic rock, and there are plenty of lesser-known crags that are perfect for those climbing 5th and 6th grade routes. Even better — most of them are located along the road between Athens and Leonidio, making them easy to access if you still want to check out Leonidio too.
Best Alternatives to Leonidio for Beginner Climbers: Nafplio
Nafplio is one of Greece’s most charming coastal cities — full of history, beauty, and most importantly, great climbing.
One of the best areas for beginners is Karathona, located right on the beach. Here’s what you can expect: high-quality limestone, parking next to the crag, and a refreshing swim in the sea after your session. The sunsets are unreal, and the tavernas in Nafplio are perfect for dinner after a day of climbing.
Karathona offers around 100 routes, with the best climbing in the 5b–6b range. The sectors face different directions, giving you sun or shade depending on the time of day.
Sunset on the Karathona Beach
Anatoli
This is the main climbing area on the beach near Nafplio and a top choice for newer climbers. The cliff rises to around 20 meters and offers good rock quality, scenic views, and sun throughout the day thanks to its south-east orientation.
Height: ~20 meters
Routes: Around 30 bolted routes from 4c–7a
Best for: Climbing in the 5b to 6b range
Kato Kosmos
Kato Kosmos, meaning "Underworld" in Greek, is one of the most atmospheric crags in the area. Located in a shaded ravine with route names painted on bones, it feels like climbing in a mythological cave. The routes themselves are just as enjoyable as the setting.
Vibe: Shaded and cool, great for warm days
Grades: Several great 5th grade routes and some interesting mid to late 6s
Experience: Unique ambiance — worth a visit even just for the experience
Karathona (Chapel Sector)
Just next to a small chapel built into the cliff, Karathona is ideal for beginners and intermediate climbers alike. It’s great for the warm days, with a beachside location and a mix of shade and sun throughout the day.
Routes: 30+ bolted routes from 5a–7a
Best for: Climbing between 5a–6c
Exposure: Mostly shaded, north- and west-facing walls
Access: Easy access — right by the beach with nearby parking
Neraki
This famous Nafplio crag features a different type of rock and excellent pocket climbing, making it a great change of pace. While the majority of routes are in the higher grades, there's a solid cluster of easier lines as well.
Main wall: Features 6b–7b routes
Beginner section: Right-hand side offers good 5b–6b climbs
Features: Unique rock features — good for variety in your trip
Climbing ‘Anoxi /Spring’ 6a in Neraki – great pocket climbing
More Beginner-Friendly Crags Near Nafplio
If you’re based in Nafplio (or driving from Athens to Leonidio), these crags are within an hour and offer some of the best climbing in southern Greece for 5th and 6th grade climbers.
Solomos
Located conveniently along the Athens–Nafplio route, Solomos is a long cliffline with a high density of well-bolted routes. It’s ideal for groups with mixed levels — and even better for beginners looking to push themselves.
Routes: 70+ routes from 5a–7a
Progression: Many 5th grade routes with (soft) 6th grade extensions ideal for pushing those harder grades.
Quality: Varied climbing on good quality rock
Agios Andreas
Located on the coastal road between Nafplio and Leonidio, Agios Andreas is a compact yet diverse crag with something for everyone. It's a great stop if you're en route to Leonidio but want to avoid the crowds.
Routes: ~30 routes, evenly split across 5s, 6s, and 7s
Terrain: Wall includes slab, vertical, and overhung sections
Partners: Good choice for mixed-level climbing partners
Kondyli Beach
This crag is located right by a beautiful, quiet beach south of Nafplio. Though small, it offers a nice selection of easier climbs and is perfect for a relaxed half-day session.
Vibe: Great option for combining climbing and beach time
Style: Athletic climbing with good holds in the early 6s
Grades: Includes a few 4s and 5s suitable for true beginners
Katafyki Ravine
This is the furthest crag on the list (about 1.5 hours from Nafplio), but one of the most beautiful and varied. Nestled in a lush canyon, it has a large number of well-bolted routes and a peaceful, wild atmosphere.
Routes: ~70 routes with wide grade distribution
Best Sectors: The best 5th grade climbs are located in the Welcome and Holiday sectors
Stay: Good for a full-day trip or a great place to camp for staying multiple days.
The tall and impressive Katafyki Ravine - Cover photo on TheCrag.com
Conclusion
After traveling around Greece, these are the areas I find to be the best beginner-friendly climbing destinations — not just because they’re accessible, but because they offer quality routes, beautiful surroundings, and a much more relaxed experience than Leonidio.
With the increasing pressure that climbing tourism puts on major destinations, it’s worth taking the time to explore these lesser-known crags. They’re beautiful, fun, and often completely uncrowded.
Good luck with your travels — climb hard and stay safe!
