The Best Beginner Crags in Arco for Rock Climbing
View of Arco and its famous castle from the San Martino crag
Arco, Northern Italy, is one of the world's most famous rock climbing destinations, perfectly suited for climbers of all levels, especially beginners.
Whether you're making the transition from the indoor gym to the natural limestone rock or are ready to try outdoor climbing for the first time, Arco (in the Sarca Valley) offers breathtaking views and a huge number of crags perfect even for the less experienced. For an overview of rock climbing difficulty grades, read our article here.👈
In this essential Arco climbing guide, you will discover some of the best beginner crags in Arco, selected based on:
Grades
Ease of Access
Safety and Bolting
Atmosphere
Facilities
Learning Opportunities
Below are our top recommendations to start your sport climbing adventure in Arco, featuring the beginner crags we believe are ideal for your first vertical steps!
Nago
Grades: 4 - 8C+ (47 routes between 4 and 5C)
Approach: 15-minute walk
Safety: Excellent bolting, top-rope possibility, and secure anchors
Atmosphere: Family-friendly, mixed groups; busy on weekends
Facilities: You must take your trash with you; amenities and shops are a 5-minute drive away
Learning & Improvement: Wide range of grades, perfect for trying more challenging single-pitch routes
Nago - Spleen climbing sector
Nago is one of the best-known crags in the area, offering almost 200 sport climbing routes that range from easy to hard. The routes are well-bolted, providing excellent protection, although the limestone rock tends to be polished due to the high volume of climbers.
Its accessibility and family-friendly atmosphere make this crag a superb choice for beginners. Additionally, the presence of experienced climbers can be an advantage for receiving useful tips. The area is picturesque, with spaces to relax and enjoy a picnic between climbs.
IMPORTANT CLOSURE NOTICE! Access to this crag has been prohibited for the entirety of 2024 due to scheduled restoration work. Before visiting, check social media or Garda Trentino information channels to see if the crag has been reopened to climbers.
2. Belvedere
Grades: 3 - 7B+ (29 routes between 3 and 5C)
Approach: 5-minute walk
Safety: Excellent bolting, Top-Rope possibility
Atmosphere: Mixed groups, busy on weekends
Facilities: Take trash with you; shops and services nearby (5-minute walk)
Learning & Improvement: Diverse rock features for practicing different climbing styles
The Belvedere crag offers about 30 beginner routes below grade 6A and is divided into two sectors. Sector A is perfect for beginners, with easy routes on slightly slabbed or vertical walls. Sector B, however, includes slightly overhanging routes, ideal for those looking to challenge themselves.
Access is simple, with less than a 5-minute walk from the parking lot. Despite some narrow sections in Sector A, the overall experience is pleasant and safe, even for first-time climbers.
3. San Martino (Massone)
Grades: 3 - 6B (13 routes between 3 and 5C)
Approach: 5-15 minute walk (various parking options)
Safety: Excellent bolting, Top-Rope possibility
Atmosphere: Perfect for families and beginners, busy on weekends
Facilities: Toilets and trash cans available
Learning & Improvement: Gradual progression of grades in a safe climbing environment.
San Martino Crag - Kids
San Martino is a sector designed specifically for beginners, located near the famous Massone wall. It is divided into two zones, Kids and Juniors, with about 17 routes ideal for those who want to learn lead climbing (or sport climbing).
The walls are well-bolted, featuring predominantly slabby and some vertical routes. The shade provided by the olive trees and the available amenities, such as toilets and resting areas, make this crag ideal for families and for a relaxing day of climbing in Arco.
4. Muro dell’Asino
Grades: 3 - 7B (28 routes between 3 and 5C)
Approach: 15-minute walk (various parking options)
Safety: Excellent bolting, Top-Rope possibility
Atmosphere: Perfect for families and beginners, busy on weekends
Facilities: Must take trash with you; services are a 5-minute drive away in Arco
Learning & Improvement: Wide variety of rock formations for experimenting with different climbing styles.
Muro dell`Asino
Located in the Laghel area, Muro dell’Asino is just a 15-minute walk from the parking area (or a 40-minute walk from the center of Arco). With almost 50 routes, nearly half of which are graded under 6A, it is definitely one of the most popular beginner climbing crags in Arco.
The grassy area connecting the two sectors of the crag is perfect for picnics and offers a spectacular view of Lake Garda. This crag is highly valued by families thanks to the tranquility and the learning opportunities it provides.
Essential Tips for Rock Climbing in Arco
Always take your trash with you: let’s keep the crags clean!
Use appropriate gear and always check the safety of the anchors. To learn more about rock climbing safety practices, check out our dedicated article at this link 👈
Plan your sessions to avoid peak crowding times, especially on weekends.
Don’t forget sunscreen and water, especially during the summer months.
Armed with this information, you are ready to explore the Arco crags and begin your vertical adventure. Happy climbing!
🌄 Looking for an alternative destination? Read our article on the 10 Best Climbing Locations in Italy 👈